Playing Robinson Crusoe

A Day Trip to Cayo Icacos

Yesterday our group left the rainforest for a day trip out to Cayo Icacos, a small island just off the coast of Puerto Rico.  We set up a trip with a local captain the day before, and got all of our grocery shopping done that evening.  The morning of our trip we were all up, rubbing our eyes and mumbling, by 6:30 a.m., and out the door by 7:00.  Half an hour later we were on the dock in Las Croabas (Fajardo) loading our things into Captain Mingo's boat.  Very soon we were all settled in for our trip across the smooth, shallow seas. 

Fifteen minutes later, a little before 8 a.m., Captain Mingo was tossing out his anchor near the white sand shoreline of Icacos.  We hopped over the gunwales and waded ashore, floating our cooler on the placid water.  We firmed up plans for our return with the captain, and he weighed anchor and slowly disappeared.

For the next two and a half hours, we were entirely alone on this seagrape and coconut palm island.  We played in the crystal -blue waters, built improvised shelters from downed palm fronds, driftwood and towels, went snorkelling on the nearby reefs, and built awesome sandcastles (the likes of which will never be seen again!).  At around 10:30 we were joined by a couple of snorkelling "cattlemarans," which were in the area for about an hour an a half before moving on to the next snorkelling spot.

We spent the early afternoon napping, doing nothing, picnicking, floating in the ocean, and doing more nothing.  At 2:30 Captain Mingo reappeared; we began packing up our things, gathering trash, and getting cleaned off.  Twenty minutes later we were back on dry land.  The sunburnt half of our party went home to sleep it off; the others hung out in Las Croabas until evening, then went on the bioluminescent bay tour there.

For a family of four, round trip to Icacos, expect to pay between $80-110.  Prices depend on gas prices, whether or not it's tourist season, sea conditions, weight of passengers, and individual captains.  You can usually bargain down a bit from the first price quoted.  If you're only a few people traveling together, visit the El Yunque Activities Message Board now, to round up your own tour group before ever setting foot in Puerto Rico.  Groups of six or more tend to have some bargaining power.

You can reach U.S. Coast Guard-Certified Captain Domingo "Mingo" Nieves at (787) 383-6509; his English is better than mine.  If Captain Mingo can't take you, his brother Octavio probably can.  Both grew up in Las Croabas, and between them have more than eighty years experience working on boats.  Mingo used to own and operate one of the charter catamarans in the area.

It's a good idea to take the following: light, long-sleeved clothes, insect repellent, plenty of fresh water, food, sunblock, and garbage bags.  Consider a dry-bag for cameras, cellphones, etc.  We ask that visitors bring an extra trash bag and do a small pickup of other people's trash.  Open fires are not permitted, but barbeques are tolerated.  Plan to leave the island no later than about 3 p.m., as the biting flies start to come out about that time.

To get to Las Croabas from Naguabo, take 53 north to Fajardo.  At the first stop light turn right onto 9987.  Follow this road all the way to the end, the loop encircling the park, with the ocean on your left.  Boats for Icacos leave from the dock to your left.  If you were unable to make a reservation with Mingo, the men sitting under the tree playing dominoes can take you out to Icacos (expect to pay more).

Visitors since November 15, 2006